Skincare acids can be a game-changer for some skin concerns, but used incorrectly they can also damage your skin barrier and cause problems.
How do you choose the right skincare acids for your skin? When and how often should you use skincare acids? Have you over-exfoliated or damaged your skin barrier with the wrong acid? Keep reading to find out!
What Skincare Acids Actually Do
Skincare acids support skin renewal by helping loosen the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This allows the skin to shed more evenly, improving dullness, rough texture, congestion, and uneven tone.
Problems arise when acids are used too often, layered incorrectly, or chosen based on strength rather than skin tolerance. Skin responds better to precision and consistency than to aggressive exfoliation.
This article focuses on everyday exfoliation—daily or 2–3 times per week depending on tolerance. It does not apply to chemical peels.
Exfoliating Acids vs Corrective Acids
Not all acids exfoliate. Understanding this difference prevents unnecessary irritation.
Exfoliating acids remove dead skin cells:
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): glycolic, lactic, mandelic
- Beta hydroxy acid (BHA): salicylic
Corrective acids support inflammation control and pigment regulation:
- Azelaic acid
- Tranexamic acid
They serve different roles and are not interchangeable.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are water-soluble acids that work primarily on the skin’s surface.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid has a small molecular size, so it penetrates quickly and can be very effective for improving dullness, uneven tone, and rough texture—especially in thicker, more resilient skin. Because it penetrates quickly, it’s also one of the AHAs most likely to irritate if used too often or layered with other actives.
Lactic Acid (Best Exfoliating Option for Sensitive Skin)
Lactic acid is an AHA with a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, which means it penetrates more slowly and is typically better tolerated. It provides surface smoothing while supporting moisture balance, making it the best “starter” exfoliating acid for many sensitive or dryness-prone skin types—especially when the goal is gentle refinement, not aggressive resurfacing.
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is another larger-molecule AHA that penetrates more slowly. It’s commonly used for acne-prone or reactive skin because it can improve texture and uneven tone with a lower risk of irritation compared with stronger, faster-penetrating acids.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which allows it to work inside pores—making it a primary option for blackheads, whiteheads, congestion, and oily skin patterns. It’s often well tolerated when introduced gradually. Anyone with aspirin sensitivity should use caution because salicylic acid is related to salicylates.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is commonly used to support clearer pores, calm visible redness, and improve uneven tone. It’s frequently chosen for acne-prone skin, rosacea-prone skin, and post-breakout marks because it targets inflammation and uneven pigment without relying on aggressive exfoliation.
Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid supports pigment regulation by interrupting pigment signaling pathways. It’s often used for stubborn discoloration and melasma-like patterns. Tranexamic works best alongside daily sun protection and a gentle routine—more intensity is not better when pigmentation is involved.
Enzymes + Acids: A More Balanced Way to Exfoliate
Enzymes exfoliate differently than acids. Instead of relying on low pH to increase activity, enzymes help break down surface buildup in a more controlled way.
When pineapple-derived enzymes are combined with gentle AHA and BHA, exfoliation can feel smoother and more comfortable—especially when paired with niacinamide, which supports barrier function and helps reduce the “over-exfoliated” look and feel.
This type of balanced formula is designed for consistent use, not aggressive cycling.
If It Stings, That Does Not Mean It’s Working
A common misconception is that stinging or burning means an acid is effective. It does not.
- Mild, brief tingling can happen
- Persistent stinging or burning signals irritation
Irritation increases inflammation, weakens the skin barrier, and can worsen discoloration—especially in reactive skin tones. Long-term results come from calm, consistent exfoliation, not intensity.
Why pH and Percentage Matter
Two products can list the same acid at the same percentage and behave very differently.
- Percentage indicates how much acid is present
- pH influences how biologically active that acid is
Lower pH increases activity. Higher percentage does not automatically mean better results and can significantly increase irritation risk.
Why pH Is Rarely Listed on Retail Products
Most cosmetic brands are not required to disclose pH. That makes product comparison difficult for consumers. Because pH is usually unknown, frequency and tolerance matter more than strength.
Gentle Exfoliation Is Not the Same as a Chemical Peel
This article does not apply to chemical peels.
Chemical peels use much lower pH and higher concentrations to create controlled injury and require professional oversight. pH and percentage play a much larger role in peel depth and risk.
Chemical peels should never be done at home.
Frequency Matters More Than Strength
Barrier damage most often comes from using moderate acids too frequently.
A reasonable approach:
- Start once weekly
- Increase to 2–3 times weekly if well tolerated
- Daily exfoliation is rarely necessary
If skin feels tight, reactive, or unusually dry, reduce frequency first.
Seasonal Adjustments Matter
Skin tolerance changes with the environment.
Summer: heat, sweating, and UV exposure increase irritation and pigmentation risk → many people do better using acids less often.
Fall/Winter: skin is often drier and barrier-stressed → reintroduce slowly and support with moisturizers.
Choosing What Fits Your Skin
- Congestion or breakouts: salicylic or mandelic
- Sensitive skin needing exfoliation: lactic (primary choice)
- Dull texture: lactic or mandelic; glycolic only if resilient/tolerant
- Discoloration: tranexamic + gentle routine
- Redness-prone skin: azelaic
When in doubt, simplify rather than layer.
A Balanced Exfoliating Option
A formula that combines gentle AHA and BHA with pineapple-derived enzymes and niacinamide allows exfoliation to happen gradually while supporting clarity, tone, and barrier comfort—without relying on harsh intensity.
Acids at a Glance
| Acid Type | Best For | How to Use | Key Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Salicylic (BHA) | Clogged pores, blackheads, whiteheads, oily congestion | 1–2× weekly at night; increase slowly | Oil-soluble; works inside pores |
| Glycolic (AHA) | Dullness, uneven tone, rough texture (resilient skin) | 1× weekly to start; avoid stacking | Small molecule; higher irritation risk |
| Lactic (AHA) | Sensitive or dry skin needing gentle exfoliation | 1–2× weekly; often tolerated long-term | Supports moisture; starter acid |
| Mandelic (AHA) | Acne-prone + sensitive skin, uneven texture | 1–2× weekly; gradual increase | Large molecule; slower penetration |
| Azelaic (Corrective) | Redness, breakouts, post-acne marks | Daily or every other day | Anti-inflammatory; not a peel |
| Tranexamic (Corrective) | Stubborn pigmentation patterns | Daily consistency + SPF | Targets pigment signaling |
Need Help Choosing the Right Acids?
If you’re unsure which acid fits your skin—or how often to use it—I’m always happy to help you build a routine that supports results without damaging your skin barrier. Contact me to schedule a virtual skin consultation. We’ll discuss your skin concerns and goals to build your ideal skincare routine.
Whether you need help with acne, menopause skin changes, or pro-aging skincare support, I have the experience to guide you!
